As far as family travel goes, Greece was undoubtedly the best trip we went on, though the Netherlands was a close second! We only had 8 full days and that was clearly less than ideal to take in the splendor of the country. On this trip, D & S are almost 6.5 and 4.5, which are pretty good ages to experience what Greece has to offer on a family trip. We spent a short time in Athens before heading to the islands of Naxos and then Santorini.

WHEN:

We traveled in the last two weeks of May and found this to be a good idea since high season hadn’t started yet, the tourists are fewer and prices were lower. Athens wasn’t unbearably hot but the downside was that the water in the beaches were a little colder than we would have preferred. That didn’t stop us however from venturing into them!

We flew Qatar Airlines in a very roundabout way, but the service was so excellent, the time spent getting to and from Greece didn’t bother us one bit. The crews were amazing, the entertainment and food were top-notch, and the kids received games like Monopoly.

ATHENS

TRANSPORTATION:

Getting around Athens was easy in a taxicab and very cheap. This worked out great for us since we didn’t have to figure out the public modes in the limited time we had there.

STAY:

H booked us into an Airbnb in the Varnaba neighborhood, just a few miles from the Acropolis. It was such a treat to be able to see it in the distance every time we stepped out!

EAT:

1. Kolokythi: Very friendly staff and a wide range of breakfast and brunch options

   

2. Grab some fresh koulouri, the sesame bread ring at any neighborhood bakery.
3. Vyzantino taverna for authentic Greek food in Plaka (get the lamb dishes!)
4. Stop at Nova Gea Juice Bar for some AMAZING Juices! I wish this would catch on in the States! You pick your own fruits and hold your mason jar under the nozzle as the fruits are juiced into it.
5. Little Kook: a desserts-only place that is really fun. When we went there, it was entirely pirate-themed, but I was told that it changes often.
6. Not far from the Little Kook is a neighborhood with tons of other restaurants with patrons sitting outside and enjoying a warm evening. But our absolute favorite meal was at Savvas on Ermou 91. I believe their food is Turkish, and it was sooo good. We seriously contemplated going there a second time on our way back to the US in the little time left we had in Athens.
7. The restaurant at the Sofitel also serves amazing food, but we were there for just a few hours.

DO

1. Panathenaic Stadium is a few minutes by walk from Varnaba. The location of the first modern Olympics in the 1800s. Entry is 5 Euro, but you can also get a free panoramic view from Arditou Hill.
2. Hadrian’s Arch, the Temple of Olympian Zeus and the Roman Baths can be seen for free, or pay a fee to enter and see more of the Temple.

   

3. If you’re in Athens on a Sunday, DO NOT MISS the ceremonial changing of the guard at Syntagma Square at 11 AM. The Evzones are completely worth it. If you miss it, you can see an abridged version without all the pomp, on the hour every hour

   

4. Walk through the National Gardens to get to Syntagma Square and try to spot the turtles. You can also sit down on a bench to give your feet some much needed rest while munching on snacks from the cart vendors nearby.
5. Plaka: Check out Lisikrati Square, and the oasis of Anafiotika, which reminds one of the islands, with its white and blue structures. There are tons of restaurants and shops in the area. I grabbed some fashion jewelry and olive wood utensils, olive oil soaps and creams in one of the many stores.

   

6. Monastiraki: There are tons of shops selling Greek style leather sandals, it can be overwhelming. I bought several pairs at Mi Terra, but check out the others on sandal shops on Andrianou Street and Ifestou Street. Find a rooftop bar in the area for a fantastic view and some people-watching. “A is for Athens” is a good one.
   
7. Acropolis: This is what you have come to Athens for, and you absolutely do not want to miss it! At the time of writing this, it’s early 2018, tickets are not available for purchase online. MOST IMPORTANT NOTE: Go early or close to sunset, otherwise the place is going to be overrun by cruise ship passengers. Sunset is also a great time because the entire place is bathed in golden rays making your photos even more special. We enjoyed almost entirely unobstructed views of the Parthenon, Erechtheion and Odeon of Herodes Atticus, the Northern and Southern Slopes, and panoramic views of Athens. It was an overcast day, so we didn’t get a great sunset, but look, there is hardly anyone else there! WIN!

   

FUTURE:

Due to the fact that we were in Athens for just one day, we were very limited on time and could not get to the the following must-sees/dos.

1. Roman Agora. Entry was included in the ticket, which is valid for multiple days.
2. Museum of the Acropolis
3. Sounion and Delphi (day trips)
4. Eat at Strofi (reservations recommended) or other rooftop bars at dinner for a magnificent view of the Acropolis lit up at night
5. Go back to the Acropolis and end the day watching Dora Stratou’s Greek Dances Theater
6. Shop along Ermou
7. Buy up a bunch of Korres skincare
8. Eat dessert at Lukumades
9. Visit the old markets in Athens

For the first time ever, we decided to use a travel agency to help us find hotels on the islands as well as transportation out of Athens. We used Greece’s top agency, Fantasy Travel. Ask for Nikos Emmanouil, he is the best!

What their services provided:

• shuttle transfer from our Athens room to the port
• tickets on the ferry to Naxos
• shared transfer from the port of Naxos to the hotel and back
• hotel booking in Naxos
• shared transfer from the hotel back to the port of Naxos
• tickets on the ferry to Santorini
• private transfer from the port of Santorini to the hotel and back
• hotel booking in Santorini
• flight from Santorini to Athens
• hotel booking in Athens before heading back to the States

NAXOS:

Fantasy Travel arranged for our pick up from the Athens apartment, transport to the luxurious Blue Star Ferries for a hop over to the island of Naxos. We had tickets in business class, and therefore easy access to a cafe and restaurants on our level. Note, we had with us a large suitcase, two carry-ons (D’s girly one, and H’s backpack kind from ebags)

TRANSPORTATION:

We rented a car for 24 hours on Naxos. Our hotel was fairly centrally located, so we walked to most places and into town. It took us no more than 15 minutes to get to most places including markets. The car rental can easily be arranged by the hotel upon request and didn’t cost more than 25 Euro. Be aware that the streets are super narrow, the car is small and the island itself is mountainous in most parts, outside of the beach areas. It’s not for the faint of heart! Due to the terrain, we also opted to do a day long bus tour leaving it to the experts. Naxos Tours took us around and showed us the highlights that we might otherwise miss since we decided not to drive by ourselves to some of the higher altitudes.

STAY:

Fantasy Travel helped us pick Alkyoni Beach Hotel, along the rightfully popular Agios Georgios Beach. The staff is very friendly and the breakfast is absolutely delicious, highlighting the bounty of the island.

EAT:

1. Naxos is a verdant island, so be sure to not miss the produce. DO NOT miss the Mizithra cheese here in the Greek salads, or you will regret it forever. The feta cheese you get in a Greek salad in the US, doesn’t come close! One of the best was from Ippokampos restaurant right on Agios Giorgios beach. Rent a beach umbrella and order away, the food and service are pretty affordable and friendly. Potatoes and quince are other specialties as is the honey as well.

   

2. Pizzadelia: Because kids! Some days they just want pizza, and we are perfectly happy with the amazing salads and pasta.
3. Meze2: If you find yourself hungry after your climb to Portara, then this is a good place to stop. It is not the greatest and didn’t blow our minds, but it worked just fine. This is also a good place to see octopus hung out to dry!

   

4. Aktaion Pastry Boutique: I still dream of this place! A few doors down from Meze 2, this shop offers ice-cream and the prettiest and tastiest goodies.
5. 1739: The views from here are gorgeous, especially at sunset
6. Gyro Gyro in Naxos Town for a not too expensive yet good dinner, people-watching and friendly service.
7. Nikos Tavern in Apollonas, the best view and excellent service. How pretty is this!

The water here is beautiful and shallow enough that we let D & S venture pretty far out without worrying too much. It was a tad cold for us, so go during the middle of the day if you are there in mid- late May.

DO:

1. Portara: A 18 foot gate on an islet that was the entrance to the future temple of Apollo. It is a short climb to get here, and the water is stunning all around. It gets cold so bring a jacket or sweater.

   

2. Agia Anna, Pirgaki and Mikri Vigla are other beaches worth checking out.

   

   https://youtu.be/upBbRZkumpA

3. The olive press at Eggares is not be to missed! It is sweet little place offering a demo and free samples. The kids also loved the little animals running around in the yard next door.
4. Sunsets.

   

5. Overlooking the port, and perched on a hill, is the old Venetian fort/castle, a Catholic church and more that tells the story of Naxos’ diverse past. You may find yourself lost in the labyrinth-like ways, so be sure to know what paths you are taking. Along the edges of this neighborhood is also a great place to shop for souvenirs. The price and quality beats the mass-produced items by the waterfront. Some weekends also feature live music, so be sure to catch one.
   
6. Temple of Demeter near Sangri. This ruin is so classic, it is hard to believe how many thousands of years old it is.
7. Stop in Apiranthos, the village of marble, with it’s walkways and houses. Great place for pictures.
8. The village of Chalki is charming with it’s kitron liqueur refinery, churches and coffee shops. Make sure to stop at Fish and Olive boutique for a pretty bauble

   

9. Explore Chora (Naxos town)

   

10. Check out the fallen statue of Dionysus, or the Kouros of Apollonas. Apollonas also has a beautiful beach with some colorful sand that the kids were very intrigued by.
11. The village of Vivlos with its churches and windmills
12. The village of Filoti

FUTURE:

1. Eat at Nostimon Hellas and Delfinaki, top rated restaurants in the area
2. Hike Mt Zas

SANTORINI:

Santorini! The post everyone has been waiting for! We arrived in Santorini in the early afternoon via Blue Star Ferry again.

TRANSPORTATION:

The island of Santorini is comprised of many different towns such as Oia, Fira, Imerovigli and Firostefani among others, but it is Oia which undoubtedly is the one that most people think of when you mention Greece. Getting around Oia itself is easily done by walking, but getting to the other towns requires a car. We rented a car for a day so we could cover all the other parts of the island but be warned, it is even worse than Naxos because now you have to deal with a whole ton of tourists, many of whom are on ATVs.

STAY:

It is not the easy to find family friendly lodging because Santorini is more of a romantic getaway, especially so in Oia. The walls are low, the roads narrow, and the plunging cliffs aren’t exactly the most kid-safe places. Fantasy Travel was able to find us a family-friendly hotel, the Lava Oia traditional homes. We loved not only the host, Pepitsa, but also her multiple cats. The houses are traditional cave style and each has a caldera view that makes you feel like you have it all to yourself. Breakfast was included and they customize it to your needs and preferences, which was great, because…kids!

EAT:

1. Pitagyros, and their friendly dog keeps you company. The gyros are excellent.
2. Dimitris Ammoudi Taverna where you can feast on lobster and octopus and a variety of fish. The kids were fans of all of it, including the bread! Don’t forget to try the tomato fritters here. While Ammoudi Bay is one of my faves, I highly recommend coming down the hundreds of steps from Oia, early-ish. As the day wears on, the stairs are covered in donkey poo. Also, if you prefer not to take the stairs, the hotel or restaurant can take you to-from Oia for 5E. Do not use the donkeys, the poor animals are not treated well 🙁

   

   

   

3. Lotza, which is one of the few places to be open at lunch. They don’t take reservations so you have to wait, but you are rewarded with a gorgeous view while you eat.
4. Mama’s House in Fira is another popular spot.

   

5. Lucky’s gyros in Fira. The food was sooo good, we couldn’t stop stuffing ourselves and even packed some food for a picnic lunch on the beach in Perissa.
6. Santo Winery in Pyrgos. Technically, this is drinking, but you could eat some here, or go a block to Senor Zorba’s Mexican (yes, in Greece!) and still have a fantastic view!
   
7. Roka. The food was good, not great. There are tons of other places, and Karma looked really good to me. Check out Santorini Dave’s post on this https://santorinidave.com/best-restaurants-santorini

DO:

1. Catch an Oia sunset by heading towards the Lioyerma windmill. The crowds start building up an hour and half ahead of sunset, so be prepared. Alternatively, find a restaurant with a sunset view!

   

2. Atlantis Books, a very unique bookstore that is built into a cave. Support bookstores by buying a book or postcard.
   
3. Do a dinner sunset cruise. We went with the Red Catamaran tour offered by Sunset Oia. I cannot rave enough about the crew. They were so incredibly friendly towards D & S, and even let D steer the boat for a good while. Their bus picked us up from our hotel and headed to Ammoudi Bay in the early afternoon. As part of the tour, we stopped at Red Beach and White Beach to swim for a bit, sailed by the Nea Kameni volcano, and stopped for a swim in the hot springs nearby. The drinks and barbecue dinner and unlimited fun on board the boat are all included! Life jackets and snorkeling gear are provided to allow you to explore the waters for a bit. All 4 of us got into the hot springs! The sunset from the catamaran is absolutely amazing, and it totally beats having to jostle the crowds in Oia.

   

   

   

   

4. Take a pic of the 3 blue domes that Santorini is known for. It is pretty close to Lolita’s Gelato and there is also a path near the Bulgari store that leads to the domes. Another option is to look up The Bubble Suite, which is right by the domes. VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Do this before the cruise ship passengers get to Santorini or you won’t stand a chance! We looked up the schedule and planned accordingly.
   
5. With your rental car, head out to Akrotiri to see the site of the most important ruins on the island, but if you are not inclined to do so, at least visit the Museum of Prehistoric Thera which houses the most famous of the art work recovered from the ruins. D & S were intrigued as we were with all the Minoan treasures.
   
6. Spend an afternoon in Perissa, the black sand beach. The “sand” is nothing like I have ever seen before, and it does get hot due to the color, but go prepared and have a blast at this family-friendly beach, with plenty of restaurants and shops around.
   
7. Pyrgos is a village that’s perched at the top of the island, which means the views are even more outstanding here. Visit the “Santorini of the Past” museum here that shows you Greek life as it used to be before tourism. You pay a small fee to be led into different model houses, D & S loved this so much, and learned a lot as well. Wander around St George church and Pyrgos castle.

   

8. Shop at Hondos center in Fira. The prices are cheap and you’ll find souvenirs for back home.
9. Shop Greek made jewelry at Athens Protassis at various locations. These also make beautiful souvenirs.

FUTURE:

1. Do a cooking course
2. Climb one of the volcanoes by Santorini
3. Dine at Ambrosia, Oia, one of the most romantic spots ever

TIP:

Hire a local photographer to take your pictures on Santorini! The place is beautiful but it does get incredibly crowded and hot, and for many, this is a once-in-a-lifetime deal. Make it memorable. Here are some of ours: